This stop: Pune

-
A few weeks after rambling around Patagonia and Puerto Natales I found myself more than 10,000 miles away in Pune, a city in western India.

With utter self-control I have decided not to write about the traffic and cityscape that characterise a bustling Indian city. Well at least not in this post! I usually start with food but this time it's worth describing the sights. My first ever visit and an extended stay in Pune city, located about 150 km east of Mumbai, has thrown up interesting surprises.

There is history aplenty associated with this medium-sized town. As with hundreds of other places in India that are jostling their way up the economic ladder, the past seems largely forgotten. Joined by a couple more intrepid souls from across India and overseas, I have managed to see several landmarks.

One of my favourite places in the city is the Aga Khan Palace and grounds. Reminiscent of any old ‘haveli’-style palace, Gandhi was imprisoned here for some time before independence. His wife Kasturba (called ‘ba’) passed away here following a long illness. His trusted secretary also lost his life here. Despite these tragic events, or perhaps because of them, there is a serenity here that is difficult to find elsewhere in the city. Some views below. The garden is open till 5:30 PM. It is scorching hot in April/ May but cooler in June/ July when monsoon arrives.







For late evenings, the Japanese Gardens (locally called Pu La Deshpande Gardens) just off a busy arterial road are a refreshing change from the evening bustle of the city. Evening opening hours are from 4:00 to 8:00 PM.





















Located about an hour’s drive from Pune is Sinhagad Fort (or Lion’s Fort).  Among the legends and history it holds is its most famous story, of a brave general in King Shivaji’s army who fought like a lion. The fort is in ruins but the trek up provides fabulous views of the city. Worth going both before and after the rainy season to see the parched surroundings transform from yellow to lush green.









 Dagdusheth is one of the most famous Ganesha temples in the city. It is located in the buzzing traditional city centre with spice market stalls, flower stalls, shops selling traditional saris and kurtas as well as roadside shops with more budget western wear. While this may sound fascinating, romantic and in line with the imagined view of India, it’s best to take it in small “bites”. Watch out for the dust, honking, vehicle fumes and crowds, particularly on weekend evenings.


More posts on food and fun soon!


Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Bangkok Chronicles: Walking with the Buddha

-
Image
It is a strange feeling indeed to be an Indian (of sorts) in Southeast Asia. Years ago, in smoke-filled pubs of London, it felt perfectly logical to have the Goodness Gracious Me -inspired argument that only one outcome was acceptable: ‘We did it first in India’. Fortunately, the pubs became smoke-free, and I could spend an evening without needing an instant dry-clean for my coat or a deep-cleansing hair wash after each visit. I digress, as usual. This time, as I traverse around Bangkok, I have been filled a growing realisation that indeed, many ideas, beliefs and practices did emerge first in India. Equal is the wonder at how delicately they got assimilated in the local culture and acquired a uniqueness that can only be described in this trite but useful phrase- same same but different . Lest you await the hackneyed confession ‘I truly found myself’ (and there are many ways of finding oneself in Bangkok!), let me assure you there has been no such miraculous moment of discovery for me....
Read more

Bangkok Chronicles: The river

-
Image
On a cold January morning, by the foothills of the Himalayas in northern India, I ushered in 2024 with my family. Back in Delhi, the smog showed little sign of receding. Through the smoky and dust-hued sky, we occasionally witnessed shards of sunlight, a reminder that our planet's bright star has not abandoned us just yet. Fortunately for me, a new adventure awaited. Before the month was over, I had landed about 3000 km east of India in Thailand. Upon alighting from the plane, my jacket was promptly stuffed at the bottom of the suitcase. Within 24 hours I was hitting the shops to buy t-shirts. Because, as everyone knows, you can never have enough t-shirts in a hot and humid country. Over the last few months I have been serenading my social circle with a Whats App-based photo journal. It is finally time to do the proper thing, which is to pen down my experiences for immortality (or till robots take over the earth). I had been to Bangkok several times before as a tourist. H...
Read more

Bangkok Chronicles: 'Veggie Delight' gets a new meaning

-
Image
In the early days, just like the fruits, the vegetable section of supermarkets continued to fill me with more questions than answers. The translation software on my phone was of little use, as many of these were labelled 'native vegetable'.  Eventually, I decided to chuck a new veggie in my basket each week and work out later what it was, and how best to cook it. Here is a small selection of the more unusual and the interesting ones. There are several I had seen before but never tried. Others, as I discovered in my online searches, were well-known in parts of India. I just hadn't come across them while growing up in Delhi, or my family had not experimented enough - an oversight they are now addressing as they regularly share their own funky recipes. Winged beans This is undoubtedly one of my favourite finds. I first tasted these in a delectable salad at an upmarket hotel in Bangkok. It was absolutely scrumptious and I confess, I have never been able to replicate that exact ...
Read more