Bangkok Chronicles: The river

On a cold January morning, by the foothills of the Himalayas in northern India, I ushered in 2024 with my family. Back in Delhi, the smog showed little sign of receding. Through the smoky and dust-hued sky, we occasionally witnessed shards of sunlight, a reminder that our planet's bright star has not abandoned us just yet.

Fortunately for me, a new adventure awaited. Before the month was over, I had landed about 3000 km east of India in Thailand. Upon alighting from the plane, my jacket was promptly stuffed at the bottom of the suitcase. Within 24 hours I was hitting the shops to buy t-shirts. Because, as everyone knows, you can never have enough t-shirts in a hot and humid country.

Over the last few months I have been serenading my social circle with a Whats App-based photo journal. It is finally time to do the proper thing, which is to pen down my experiences for immortality (or till robots take over the earth).

I had been to Bangkok several times before as a tourist. However this time, with a longer stint at hand, I decided to throw myself into the life of a would-be Bangkokian with gusto. For starters I decided to stay, for some time, in a place as far away from the 'expat' district as possible. The downside was lack of public transport, i.e. miles away from the BTS (Bangkok Transit System), the elevated skytrain or the MRT.

The upside was getting up to a beautiful view of the river every day. These chronicles must start with the Chao Praya River. Throughout history, rivers have played an intrinsic role in nurturing great civilisations. The same goes for Thailand. For it is along the Chao Praya that one of its most magnificent capital cities, Ayutthaya once thrived. Today, one can still take a boat ride up the river to travel from Bangkok to Ayutthaya. 

For now, let us stay in Bangkok where the river has a life of its own, alternating between buzzing express boats and slow moving tugs. Here are some of the fascinating views of the river from a high vantage point.

On some days I was lucky enough to take a break from work and observe dusk tiptoe its way in. The minutes and hours flew by as I watched the last glimmers of sunshine depart and the first city lights come on.

I still cannot decide what is my favourite time of the day to view the river. I discovered that, much later in the evening, Bangkok glitters like a jewel. Amidst the inky darkness, the river and the piers along it have a life of their own.

Just like the city, the river too is a paradox. The serene mornings and spiritual offerings to the river give way to gentle activity in the middle of the day. As the day progresses, commuter boats, tugs and the odd tourist boats glide past. By evening, visitors are lurching dangerously along the edge of their chosen tour boat as they vie for the most Instagrammable photo of the day. As night falls, the party boats are belting out familiar pop music as their occupants eat, drink and dance while cruising the waters. 

Finally as everyone goes to bed, the fish heave a sigh of relief. Another day awaits.

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