Bangkok Chronicles: Life along the canal

There is the Bangkok that millions of visitors experience - ancient temples, the Grand Palace by the Chao Praya river, towering skyscrapers in Sukhumvit and alluring shopping malls that are designed in a manner that ensures swift entry and an almost impossible exit.

The other Bangkok is a forgotten city of the past that thrived along its canal routes.  The modernisation of the 1960s led to a rapidly expanding road network some of which was built over long-used waterways. Slowly homes, offices, shops and much of the city's activity shifted along local and arterial roads. 

Fortunately, some canals remained and others are being restored. Today life along the canal or 'khlong' displays a unique character. Modest, low-rise developments are interspersed with historic buildings and local buddhist temples. 

Let's start with Pratunam Pier along Saen Saep canal. This is a major interchange that connects a few canal lines and is close to a large shopping district and a popular night market. 

Here is another view of Saen Saep Canal in the direction of Thong Lo. A number of Orange Line boats use this stretch and are popular with locals, commuters and the occasional tourist.

The boats are fairly basic and just about canal-worthy. Spewing fumes of black smoke through a noisy motor, they whizz along the waterways, sometimes a tad too fast. The environmentally-conscious amongst you will be glad to know there are plans for an electric boat fleet. A handful have been tested along River Chao Praya. One assume the economics don't stack up yet for a full-scale replacement. Here is what the inside of a boat looks like. Good to see the flotation cushions on the ceiling.

A familiar tale of many cities around the world is the man-made tragedy of concrete having taken over nature.  I deliberately dont use the inclusive phrase 'human' or 'person-made' as I am certain (with a decided bias) that more women decision-makers in town planning and urban development would have put forward better alternatives! So here we are with entrances to the piers that are hidden from sight and often lie under flyovers. This is Phetchaburi pier, another central location not fare from the metro.

Below is a typical day time view as the boat passes through residential districts. The water is, of course, a bit murky. Some efforts are underway on to clean up Bangkok's waterways.

Not all the waterways are navigable. However most have narrow walking paths and bridges that allow residents to access roads and other facilities. 

As dusk sets in, the canals take on a different and interesting character. This stretch near central Bangkok was lit neon-green. The right bank had a canal-side eating joint. Other locations had tiny pubs which were buzzing with local youngsters. Over the sounds of long-forgotten pop songs, I heard chattering and laughter and youngsters who were enjoying an evening out  rather than making digital connectons. It was heartening to see this social bonding that is becoming rare in today's impersonal cities, including the upmarket areas of Bangkok.

A good place to join the canal is at Sapan Hua Chang accessible from BTS Ratchadewi. The stretch from here is one of my favourite bits of Saen Saep Canal with walkways on either side.

If one fancies jumping on a boat, the pier is just under Hua Chang Bridge. The Orange or Golden Mount line runs uptown to my all-time favourite local temple Wat Saket (alight at Phanfa Leelard pier). The stop at Sapan Hua Chang is walking distance from the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), Jim Thompson House and MBK Mall.  The glitzy retail establishments at Siam BTS are not too far either but be prepared to melt if walking in the heat!  Alternately, if you are looking to escape the unending strip of malls, then get onto the walking path and you will meet sights like this below.

At some places, one could be stepping a few decades back in time.

Life occurs by the canal. I tried to be as discreet as possible. At the back on my mind were recent stories of gawping tourists descending upon local districts. After a year in Bangkok, my position is a bit fluid- I am neither a local nor a passing tourist. Just a person eager to capture this moment in time.

It was heartening to see greenery, plants and even a mini-pergola !

At Sapan Charoenpol pier, there is a small bridge that allows residents to connect to the road network and to buses. By the way,  'sapan' or 'saphan' means bridge in Thai. Since many piers are located under or near a bridge their name starts with the word Sapan.

Any long walk in the tropical climate of Bangkok is sure to leave one dehydrated. Fortunately, there is always a stall with coconut water around!

Here is a handy link for canal boat routes to some popular destinations in Bangkok. 

Let's hope Bangkok continues its canal restoration projects and the all-important canal clean-up initiatives. I also look forward to riding on electric boats soon!

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