Sauntering in Singapore

My first international trip in 2022 was a short visit to Singapore. Rather fortuitously, the SG government relaxed entry restrictions just as I was getting itchy feet. 

Back in 2007, I had spent a long weekend in SG, enroute to Australia and NZ. On that visit, my friends I and A very kindly took me to the most popular landmarks and districts. I also wandered on my own in this easy-to-navigate city-country. More than a decade later, I decided to explore SG under the expert guidance of native Singaporeans who pointed me to lesser-known nooks and corners.

On arrival I captured this aerial view below.  Nope, this is not the invasion scene from Troy. It is, in fact, the approach to Changi airport. These shipping lines move goods between some of the largest ports in the world. It is very likely that the jacket you are wearing or the phone you are using arrived via a transfer at SG.

Before writing a post on the fascinating cultural mix in Singapore, I start with food, which was the original basic necessity before wi-fi was invented. Our fleet-footed ancestors foraged in dense jungles using a variety of stone-age tools to feed themselves. Luckily, we have the biggest weapon of all to find food in the urban jungle - the internet. Surprisingly, I discovered that being a vegetarian in UK and mainland Europe is often easier than in parts of Asia where seafood is an inherent part of the local cuisine. Nonetheless, guided by technology and local recommendations, I found a good mix of local and regional fare.

Quite early in my trip, I was fortunate to chance upon Sauté-San, an East Asian restaurant located in the modest City Square Mall on Kitchener Road. They appeared to do brisk business on weekends and evenings. The staff were precise, professional and swift, leaving little time for pleasantries. The food quality and flavours were a dream come true for vegetarians who want to try authentic plant-based Asian cuisine without being charged extortionate prices.

One of my most memorable dishes was this delicious ramen noodle soup with seaweed and a slice of cheese.

I also savoured this lip-smacking veggie bibimbap and miso soup below.

One of my favourite local delicacies was Putu Piri, a steamed rice cake with a sweet filling such as palm sugar, topped with grated coconut. The dish may have had distant roots in India but is better known as a Malay dessert in Singapore. The shop on Haig Road creates them with recipes that have been passed from one generation to the next.

Then there is Real Food in Orchard Central, a delightful western-style restaurant with some tasty pasta dishes. On a typical weekday,  it is also a tranquil place to have a cup of tea, catch up on emails or just watch the world go by, especially if you manage to get one of the tables by the window.

On a more recent visit to SG, a friend introduced me to another hidden gem known mainly to established residents. This was a south Indian restaurant cocooned in the rustic and green surroundings of Dempsey Hill. Eating steaming hot curries, rice and chutneys off a banana leaf is one of those joys that cannot be explained. It can only be experienced.

To be fair, not all my dining experiences were as delightful. In fact, the most disappointing South American cuisine I have ever chanced upon, was from a fast food chain in the middle of town. Their bright interiors were possibly the only saving grace.  You may rightly wonder why I tried nachos and burritos in Singapore (!) Well, it was late and I thought it worth testing how truly 'global' Singapore was compared to its counterparts. The fast-food option got a thumbs-down from me but I did spot a bunch of high-end Mexican/ Peruvian restaurants. Looks like regular South American fare is still in the 'fine dining' category here. I wouldn't pass a hasty judgement on the way the local palette has evolved. After all food courts in India have 'American style mayo and cheese falafel wrap' on offer....

On a couple of occasions, I was practically saved by Jai Thai on Purvis Road, making it there just in time for their last orders and another one of my favourite dishes- sticky rice and mango. I noted several eateries closing by 9 PM. Perhaps they were still gauging the post-Covid demand before hiring extra staff. 

Finally, on the last evening, my sneaky late night snack consisted of peach fizzy drink and a slice of Pandan cake, the national cake of Singapore, made from the juice of the Pandan leaf.

Interestingly, the local supermarkets in Singapore are open late but one cannot buy alcohol after 10:30 PM or drink in public. So that's a 'no' to impromptu late night binges. Be prepared for penalties if found drinking outside in unlicensed premised. This shouldn't be surprising. After all, this is the country where feeding a pigeon can lead to a fine of SG$ 10,000. That would explain a respite from overfed urban pigeons, struggling to fly and ending up straight in your face (London, are you listening?!)

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