Vietnam: A story of beaches, lanterns and the Gajasimha

When visiting a country for the first time, it is usual to set foot in a large city first. Very occasionally one lands in a small town (Cork was my first visit in Ireland). Sometimes it can be an island (Kefalonia has been my one and only experience of Greece). Surprisingly my first two visits to Vietnam were also to small towns and an island. Vietnam had been on my absoluetly-must-visit list for over a decade. Finally, making a somewhat impetuous decision, I landed in Da Nang in October 2024. 

This is the month when much of Europe and North America are in the thick of autumn. However, like many tropical regions, Central Vietnam has only two seasons - rainy and not rainy. When I arrived, the dry season was ending and the formidable wet season was expected to kick in any minute. A friend with local knowledge was supremely pessimistic about impending storms and submerged streets. 

Fortune favours the brave. That can be the only explanation that allowed me to experience the twin cities of Da Nang and Hoi An in nearly perfect weather. 

The beach

For someone who doesn't swim in the sea, or require a tan, I seem to have visited quite a lot of picturesque beaches around the world. To this collection, I add the beachfront at Da Nang. It appears pleasant at first, seemingly no different to the beaches in many seaside towns that have modernised too fast. Then it grows on you, little by little. I saw the beach first at dusk, the sound of waves lapping on the sand. The clouds parted occasionally to reveal twinkling lights of distant ships. The next morning it took on a new feel as runners jogged past me, their chiselled bodies glistening under the sun. 

In the middle of the day,  I saw families relishing their ice creams, taking occasional dips in the water, and promptly coming back to the shaded deck chairs as the sun got stronger. I spotted a large number of Koreans, a few Japanese, a handful of locals and the usual mix of global wanderers.

Yoga and more

For most of 2024, I had 'lapsed' in my diligent practice of yoga. The fresh air in Da Nang persuaded me to buy a yoga mat and head to the beach. One morning, in the middle of a shoulder stand, I thought to myself - it has been decades since I ran in white 'PT shoes' on the chalk-marked athletic track of my school in Delhi. As a grown-up the only running I had done was to dash down escalators at metro stations or to catch a bus. In a moment of inspiration, I rolled up my yoga mat, grabbed some water and made my way to the soft, wet sand on the beach. I started with a light trot and slowly picked up pace. To my surprise, I continued jogging quite a distance before turning back, not because I was tired but rather I was concerned I might forget the spot where I had left my favourite yoga mat (!)

The verdict? Running barefoot on a near-pristine beach cannot be easily described. It must be experienced. A high-five to my 'pro-running' circle of friends who had mentioned this in conversations. I finally get it. 

The history 

The history and culture of Vietnam, as many of you know, is uniquely influenced by two eastern civilisations. The Indian connection lies buried deep under the ruins, the Chinese is more evident. At one Buddhist temple (Chùa An Long) in Da Nang, the door to the shrine shows the character 'Om' in Hindi (Sanskrit) at the top, followed by a Chinese character in the middle (not sure of the sound) and the last one appears to be similar to the Tibetan or Cham 'Om'.

Round the corner, the Da Nang Museum of Cham Sculpture is home to some amazing artefacts from the Hindu- Buddhist Champa Kingdom. Some of these are over 1100 years old.  This beautiful piece below is the 'Gajasimha', or elephant- lion. It is a mythical animal that has the head of an elephant and the body of a lion. Seen extensively in Cham culture, guarding the entry to temples.

Being swayed by swaying lanterns 

Now onto Hoi An. My pleasant journey through small paddy fields reminded me of the basmati rice farms in Badripur (Uttarakhand, India). Hoi An is endearingly pretty, but brimming with visitors, both Vietnamese and international. I was told that my time of visit coincided with the low tourist period. I cannot imagine what the peak season would be like. 

The character of this UNESCO heritage city has been well-preserved. Mind you, these days a UNESCO rating is probably a bigger liability than not having one. Many such listed cities are facing the brunt of over-tourism.

Nonetheless, it is easy to walk around the walled city are. The shops and eateries are understandably targeted towards tourists. As always, I loved the street bazaars selling the usual knick-knacks. However there are other hidden gems in this little town that only residents, or those with a discerning palette, are aware of. Fortunately, I got to experience some of these. 

There is one market district that left me wide-eyed and mesmerised. It was a small row of shops selling lanterns. On my first visit I could only stare at the vibrant colours and patterns, unable to decide if I should buy one or two. Luckily, I got the chance for a second visit. As I popped in and out of three adjacent shops, it felt like I had gone back in time. I was once again like a little girl in a doll shop, unable to tear myself away from the display. I imagined how the lanterns would look when lit up. I hesitated between pastel colours and daring oriental prints. I sought advice from a friend. In the end I bought, not one or two, but eight lanterns in all (!). Once back home, the plan to gift them was immediately abandoned. They all remain with family members.

As for local food, a separate post awaits. I leave you with a photo of this sumptuous claypot tofu dish at a beach-side restaurant enroute to Hoi An.

Well dear culture vultures, that's all for now. One question mystified me the most - what's with all the Indian restaurants in Da Nang ?! Well, turns out that a Vietnam circuit is the most 'in-thing' with Indian tourists of all kinds including families, young professionals, couples, retirees and the usual tour groups. It is supposedly better value than Goa, has a satisfying historical link to India and plenty of desi food.

More snippets to come soon. 

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